Explore Naoshima, Japan’s Famous Art Island
by Laura Studarus
When fresh air meets modern art
Don’t get us wrong–we love Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. The three cities of Japan’s golden triangle of tourism offer incredible opportunities to explore the country’s food, culture, and lifestyle. But if your driving force for visiting Japan is its art and creativity, you must add Naoshima to your travel bucket list. The island galleries offer an unparalleled look at modern Japanese art, providing a unique counterpoint to some of Japan’s more traditional craft and creativity experiences.
Intrigued? Read on to learn more about this special stop on your next Japan itinerary.
Where is it?
Naoshima is located in Kagawa Prefecture in Shikoku. (Although geographically it’s closer to Honshu, Japan’s main island.) It’s a bit too far outside of Osaka (four hours) and Kobe (three hours) to be anything more than a very aggressive, very annoying day trip, so plan for a few days in the region, particularly if you’re interested in visiting Okayama, Toyama, or neighboring islands.
How to get there
Naoshima is serviced by boats departing from Takamatsu Port in Kagawa and Uno Port in Okayama. The one-hour trip cost about 520 yen each way. (As prices and life and general shifts, it’s always good to double check prices and schedules before your visit.) Also important: check where your boat is going. The island is served by two ferry ports: Miyanoura in the west (the more popular of the two), and Honmura in the east.
What’s up with the pumpkin?
If you know anything about Naoshima, chances are it has something to do with Yellow Pumpkin, the yellow-spotted pumpkin created by Yayoi Kusama. The two-meters tall pumpkin sits on a short pier across from Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery: Time Corridors, and since being installed in 1994 has become the unofficial mascot of the island. A second pumpkin, a red and black polka-dotted version, fittingly called Red Pumpkin, is visible when the ferry enters Naoshima’s Miyanoura Port.
"I love pumpkins," Kusama explained in a 2015 interview, "Because of their humorous form, warm feeling, and a human-like quality and form. My desire to create works of pumpkins still continues.”
What to see
Obviously you’re here for the art–a resource that Naoshima has in abundance. Start at the Chichu Art Museum, a concrete wonder with skylights that bathe art in natural light, whose wide-range of offerings features James Turrell installation ‘‘Open Field’ and Claude Monet’s ‘Water Lilies.’ The Lee Ufan Museum takes the opposite approach, built underground to protect the natural landscape and features an extensive collection of artworks from Korean artist Lee Ufan. If you’re intrigued by the island’s pumpkin population, be sure to stop by Valley Galley, the island’s newest art offering, which features 'Narcissus Garden,’ another mesmerizing culture by Kusama. For a fusion between the old and new worlds, visit Art House Project, which since 1998 has been renovating traditional houses in the region, transforming them into site-specific works of art. (A pass is available for those who wish to visit them all.) Finally, Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery traces the artist’s creative journey and connection with the island.
Activities for the non-art obsessed
Yes, art grabs the major headline here. But it’s still worth visiting Naoshima if paint doesn’t make your heart race. Start by renting a bicycle (or electric bike) at Miyanoura Port. The road around the island will take the better part of seven hours. If you’re ambitious you can make a day out of completing it–or as much of it as your legs can handle. For your efforts you’ll be rewarded with postcard views of the island and the rare pleasure of being totally alone in stunning Japanese nature, punctuated only with the occasional larger-than-life sculpture. Once you’re done, return your bike to the harbor and enjoy a soak at I Love Yu, a bathhouse with interior art by Shinro Ohtake.
Where to stay
Lean further into Naoshima’s art-friendly reputation with a stay at the Benesse Art Site. Their unique buildings allow you to curate the exact experience you’re looking for, whether that’s the opportunity to commune with nature through stunning architecture, fall asleep to the sound of waves, or checking off a childhood dream by staying the night in the museum building itself.
What to do next
If you’ve purchased a Japan rail pass, the country is your oyster. (As always just be sure to check the most current rules and restrictions.) Why not go further afield and add more less touristy areas to your trip?
After you’ve got your fill of art, consider making a stop at Naoshima’s sister island, Shodoshima–a foodie paradise where more than 200 kilometers of noodles are stretched per day (and almost as many eaten), and visitors can see the lion’s share of Japan’s soy sauce fermenting in large wooden vats. Try some of the iconic topping over ice cream (a sweet and salty treat you’ll never again live without), and then—if you’re not completely stuffed, head over to Olive Park, home to the windmill featured in the live-action version of Kiki’s Delivery Service where you can take witch-like jumping photos with thoughtfully provided brooms.
Take the ferry back to Takamatsu to visit Ritsurin Garden, one of Japan’s most stunning historical gardens–or hop a train to Himeji, home to Himeji castle, a piece of architecture from 1333 so well preserved, it’s worth making a special visit. (Fun fact: It was also the filming location for the James Bond film, You Only Live Twice.)