Exploring Onomichi and Guntu
by Shane Winsor
*It was my first time in Japan, and I got spoiled
The magestic Guntu, cruising around the Seto Inland Sea
Shane Winsor is a Los Angeles-based content manager. He loves traveling, drinking wine, and curating the perfect playlist for any occasion.
A quick story of how I ended up in Japan.
I’m a longtime brand and content manager who recently made a little pivot from the agency world into the travel industry (what took me so long to realize the travel industry is the best in the biz?!), and have been working with the dream team at Wondertrunk for a little over four months now. Since I’m primarily working on developing content and marketing strategies, it felt weird that I hadn’t been to Japan, so we knew I needed to get there pronto but didn’t know exactly when we’d make that happen. Enter Guntu.
What is Guntu?
Great question! If you’re like me, Guntu probably wasn’t on your radar, which is fair considering how many incredible experiences there are across Japan’s many different prefectures. For folks native to Japan or lucky enough to explore areas outside the main bucket list destinations, Guntu has probably been at the top of your dream list for quite some time. In simple terms, Guntu should only be described as a perfectly appointed, luxuriously comfortable in ways you never knew existed, what dreams are made of hotel… that floats.
Designed by Japanese architect Yasushi Horibe, this floating hotel holds a cozy 19 wood-paneled cabins and several common areas that delight at every turn. More on this to come, but just know, a cruise could never. They offer three directional routes through the Seto Inland Sea (East, West, and Central) that vary between three and four days. If you’re interested in learning more about the different routes and what can be expected on each, you can find more information on their website here.
Although we’ve had the pleasure of working with Guntu for years, we had never sent an employee on the famed excursion. As luck would have it, Guntu graciously invited Wondertrunk to attend a media trip so we could fully understand the magic of the experience and better sell it to our clients.
Where is Guntu?
Departing from Bella Vista Marina in Onomichi, Hiroshima, Guntu is an easy 3.5-hour bullet train ride from Tokyo. Onomichi and the surrounding Seto Inland Sea boast some of Japan's most picturesque scenery. It’s filled with hundreds of mountain islands that pop out of the sea unexpectedly and is blanketed in an almost blue filter due to the colors of the sea and surrounding trees.
As an American, traveling by train is a rare and exciting adventure. As an American who speaks basically no Japanese, buying train tickets, navigating the station, and knowing what to do once getting off the train seemed slightly daunting. Luckily, I was traveling with my colleague, Kyle, who lives in Tokyo full-time and is fluent in English and Japanese. A quick note to mention that we’d never set clients loose without providing train tickets and a guide to get them through the station.
After meeting at Tokyo Station, we grabbed a couple of bento boxes and jumped aboard the train. Being my first time in Japan, Kyle graciously gave me the window seat where I sat with my phone out the entire time, videoing nearly every minute of the trip as we passed by Kyoto and Osaka, small ocean-side villages, and farmlands.
After pretending not to be overly excited (the excitement was real) to dig into the bento box I chose solely based on it having the prettiest picture at the kiosk, I opened my perfectly packaged meal kit and made short work of its contents. I loved every little piece of tempura, several types of fish I couldn’t identify, and even the unexpectedly wet and juicy piece of tofu that gushed more liquid than made sense all over my face, shirt, and pants. Did I look ridiculous? Yes. Was I enjoying every minute of it? Yes!
Delicious bento box
Onomichi and Bella Vista Hotel
We got off the train at Onomichi Station and were greeted by the team from Guntu, who led us to our Hi-Ace (a rather posh high-capacity van) that took us to the Bella Vista Hotel, where we spent the night before departing the following day.
It’s worth mentioning that Bella Vista Hotel and Guntu have an expected relationship, given the hotel’s proximity to the marina. Guests can add a night in the hotel before starting their journey aboard Guntu, which, depending on where you’re arriving at Onomichi from, a night at Bella Vista makes your travel day a little less rushed.
After checking into our room, Kyle and I had a couple of hours to relax before dinner at Bella Vista’s restaurant, Erretegia, a stunning glass structure in the property’s garden overlooking their hard-to-not-get-into pool and the Seto Inland Sea. We were served a 9-course meal by chefs trained in the Basque region of Spain, who expertly paired unexpected ingredients and cuisines for a feast that looked just as beautiful as it tasted. My phone ate first at every course! For me, the star of the show was the octopus and pearl barley paella, which I often think of fondly.
Views of the Seto Inland Sea from Bella Vista’s pool.
Departure Day
It’s go time! As Kyle and I join our fellow passengers (other travel industry folks who were as lucky as us to receive invites from Guntu) at the marina, I get my first close-up view of the ship and can only describe my reaction as a physical full-body buzz that didn’t go away for the entirety of the excursion.
The silver hull and exterior of the ship reflect both sea and sky, which was moody and dramatic on this particular day, allowing it to almost camouflage into the water. Despite blending into the surrounding environment, it still exudes a quiet confidence that only comes with a simple and perfectly executed design. It’s hard to explain, but at this point, I knew it was game over for me. They had already nailed it. I was already obsessed.
Not to be dramatic, but I’ve never felt more important than when I stepped out of Guntu’s Hi-Ace onto the footbridge and was welcomed aboard by a few crew members. We walked through the ship’s stunning and bright white entry, up the spiraled staircase, and out onto the ship's main deck, where I was met with the most delicious glass of champagne I’ve ever sipped.
From then on I felt like I was living in a music video. Every corner of the ship is designed in the most thoughtful ways that somehow intuit your wants, whether you’re dining, gazing at the sea from the viewing deck, or relaxing in your room. Detailed breakdowns of the rooms, common areas, dining experiences, and service are below!
Evening views from the main deck.
The Rooms
The rooms aboard Guntu are fitted with warm and clean wood paneling throughout (is there anything better than wood paneled ceilings?), which allows the larger-than-normal windows in the shower, sleeping area, and reading nook to force your attention to the outside world as the boat floats by seaside villages and dozens of mountain islands. I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the rooms, which fit Kyle and I comfortably.
I often found myself sitting in the unexpectedly roomy reading nook with a glass of wine, watching the water bounce around us. The nook, which is nested atop a couple of steps and mostly walled off from the rest of the room, offers both additional in-room hang-out space (hard to find!) and some extra privacy.
From the sleeping area, you can step outside to a private deck, where a second set of doors opens to the shower and Cyprus bath that delivers a blissful indoor/outdoor shower experience - best enjoyed with a glass of wine, in my opinion. Can you tell I’m a big wine guy?
Terrace suite
Dining
Each meal comes complete with Japanese and Western-style menus, and while I mostly enjoyed the traditional Japanese offerings, I think this is a big perk for those who don’t love seafood or those who just need their Western breakfasts. On our last day I tried the eggs benedict, which could have given any I’ve had in the LA area a run for their money.
We were on board for two dinner seatings, and on the first night, we enjoyed a typical offering in the main dining area of fresh fish, steak, octopus, and veggies, all prepared with a 5-star presentation and taste. The best part was chatting with the head chef as we made our selections and learning about each of the seasonal and local ingredients.
The second night, we ate at the private sushi bar that sits just off the main dining area, and once again, were treated to a world-class meal while learning about the local ingredient selections from our sushi chef as he prepared each roll by hand. It’s worth adding that Guntu’s sushi program is overseen by Nobuo Sakamoto of Nobu Awajishima, and I’m not just being nice when I say it was the best sushi I’ve ever had. As a sushi lover, I was surprised to find out that traditionally, soy sauce, ginger, and wasabi should all be pre-measured and rolled in with the rest of the ingredients. If your sushi chef knows what they’re doing, there’s no need to create your own concoction on the side for added flavor. My mind was blown when I ate my first roll and experienced a perfectly balanced combination of fish, citrus, soy, ginger, and a little heat from the wasabi WITHOUT having to dip the roll into anything!
My final note on the incredible dining experiences aboard Guntu is that they employ what they consider the cornerstone of their hospitality ethos: enjoy what you want, as much as you want. So, with every meal, you can eat and drink as much as you want, which the crew enthusiastically encouraged us to take advantage of. It was rare to see me without a glass of wine in hand!
Main dining room with stunning sea views
Common Spaces
Meticulously designed by architect Yasushi Horibe, I felt like I was living in an Arch Digest feature. Most of the ship features wood paneled floors, walls, and ceilings, except for the lounge, which has surprisingly clean and comfortable carpet (shoes aren’t allowed in this area) from which you can relax with tea and sweet treats at the confection bar, or visit at a table while enjoying the views.
The spa and gym areas are what you’d expect from a 5-star hotel, proudly boasting communal baths and saunas with ocean views and ultra-chic massage treatment areas.
The boat is flanked by viewing decks on either side and features a large open deck at the bow from which to enjoy the scenery. Cruising the Seto Inland Sea, Guntu passes several mountain islands, bridges, and smaller villages that all feel like they belong on a postcard.
Guntu’s lounge and confection and tea bar
The Service
From start to finish, the service was truly top-notch. As a travel enthusiast, I’ve explored a range of experiences, some very casual and some on the bougier side. Occasionally, I find myself cringing at the service that comes with higher-end accommodations, especially in popular places. Maybe you’ve felt it too, but it’s almost this feeling of annoyance or stiffness from the staff as if your presence is a bother. I was mentally preparing myself to experience a flair of this, mostly because I’m a heavily tattooed American who doesn’t speak the language. Unsurprisingly, I was immediately relieved of all fears the second we first met our contacts from Guntu.
Every crew member was so personable and friendly and spoke terrific English (but please know I’m working on my Japanese!). Around every corner, a crew member was ready to answer questions, chat about the ship, or explain our surroundings as we zipped around the Sea. I honestly don’t think I touched my luggage once after checking into Bella Vista.
I found it neat how we were paired with the same servers in the dining room for each meal and developed a rapport as we chatted about menus, swapped stories of our travels, and generally shared friendly banter. Saying goodbye to our server when leaving Guntu reminded me of what it felt like saying goodbye to a new friend you’d made at summer camp as a child.
Sushi bar
Okay, so obviously, I’m a big fan. Guntu sets the standard for unique luxury experiences. I am incredibly grateful to the teams at Guntu and Wondertrunk for this not-so-common opportunity, and I hope to experience the magic of this little floating hotel again one day.